Portsmouth Village

Life here is
different nowadays. Missing are the herds of roaming livestock that preserved
the village's low, windswept appearance. Gone is the bustling waterfront of
Portsmouth's heyday-the boat captains, fishermen, life saving staff, and
storekeepers. Established in 1753 by an act of the North Carolina Assembly,
Portsmouth grew to be the largest settlement on the Outer Banks by 1770. For nearly a century,
the town remained a major shipping center. Ocracoke Inlet was the major trade
route through the Outer Banks to important North Carolina ports. However, large,
heavily laden ships found the inlet to shallow to sail through and were forced
to transfer their cargo to lighter, shallow draft boats. Portsmouth was
established to provide storage and support facilities for this business. As the
shipping industry grew, Portsmouth thrived. In 1842, over 1400 vessels and two
thirds of North Carolina's exports passed through Ocracoke Inlet. In 1860 the
population of Portsmouth grew to 685 residents. The coming of the Civil War
signaled the end of an era for the village. Many residents fled for the mainland
as the Union Army marched down the Outer Banks. A large portion did not return
after the war. Their reasons were economical as well as political. Even before
the war began, Ocracoke Inlet had begun to shoal, (shallow) and a new, deeper
inlet was opened at Hatteras by a ferocious storm in 1846. Shipping routes
shifted north. In addition, more and more goods began traveling on inland
railroads.
A Fishing Hamlet
Portsmouth's
days as a center of commerce was over. Fishing replaced shipping as the primary
occupation for the islanders that remained. In 1894, the U.S. Lifesaving Service
was established on Portsmouth and for nearly 50 years played a vital role in the
community. Steadily the population declined. In 1956 only 17 residents remained.
The walls of time closed in on Portsmouth. Isolation, a depressed economy, and
the constant threat to life and property from storms prompted the final
abandonment of Portsmouth. With the death of Henry Pigott in 1971, Portsmouth's
last two residents, Marion Babb, and Elma Dixon, reluctantly moved to the
mainland. Another chapter in Portsmouth's history had come to an end.
A Quiet Historic Village
In 1976 with
the establishment of Cape Lookout National Seashore, new life came to
Portsmouth. The 250-acre historic district of Portsmouth is listed on the
National Register of Historic Places, an honor roll that recognizes outstanding
historic buildings and districts throughout the United States. As one walks the
lanes and trails of Portsmouth's lost lifestyle, the buildings display a close
knitted community, which were typical along the Outer Banks. The modest houses
speak of a working class community.
The People
Buildings alone
cannot tell the Portsmouth story. Its history is not so much of ships, wharves,
and fishing, but of the people who once lived there. Portsmouth is Miss Mary
Dixon, a teacher on the island's one room schoolhouse. For 37 years Miss Dixon
taught readin', 'ritin', and 'rithmatic to all the island's youth. Portsmouth is
Sam Tolson. A waterman by trade, "Uncle Sam" and his "dancin' slippers"
highlighted many a Portsmouth social event. "Uncle Sam", it was said, could
balance a glass of water on his head and dance for hours without spilling a
drop. Portsmouth is all the proud individuals who have called this seafaring
village home.
Glimpses of Portsmouth
The United
States Life Saving Service Station was a leading influence in the community from
the turn of the century until its decommission in 1937. Often the local people
made up the crew members. Life was disciplined, drills harsh, and respect in the
community widespread. The first appointed keeper was F.G. Terrel. From the
watchtower, a nightly guard scanned the seas for vessels in trouble. Patrols
walked the beach. Behind the large doors of the boathouse, oar powered surf
rescue boats waited; ready to be rushed down the ramp and out to sea at a
moment's notice. While the Lifesaving Service played an important role for the
islanders, the church filled another niche in their lives. The "Bankers"
existence was at the mercy of the sea; their faith was placed in God for
guidance. At one time the island had two churches, a Methodist and a Primitive
Baptist. Both churches were destroyed in a 1913 storm. The Methodist church was
rebuilt the following year and it still stands today. In the center of
Portsmouth stands the town's information and social hub, the United States Post
Office, established in 1840. As far back as memory goes, the Post Office also
served as a general store. Political discussions fish tales and croquet matches
were typical afternoon affairs outside this structure. As Portsmouth declined,
the Post Office remained one of the village's few links with the outside world.
In 1956 a postage stamp was the town's only purchasable commodity. In 1959, the
Post Office closed its doors for the last time. Summer kitchens and dairy houses
provide views of an earlier time without generators or electricity. The kerosene
stoves of the past could leave houses sweltering in the summer. Thus cooking was
restricted to separate kitchen buildings. With no refrigerators on the island,
residents used a shaded-screened dairy house and a cooling sea breeze to keep
perishable items fresh.

Practicalities
The
Dixon/Salter House (Visitor Center) and the Church are open to the public. The
National Park Service personnel or holders of NPS leases occupy the other
structures. The beach is a 1.2-mile walk from the village. Sand flats may be
covered by water. Camping is not allowed in the historic area. Public facilities
are limited. Be sure to bring: insect repellent, drinking water, suntan lotion,
adequate clothing and sturdy walking shoes. Be prepared for large mosquitoes and
unpredictable weather.
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